huevos con vino

For this Wine Blogging Wednesday, we were presented with a bit of a challenge.  The idea was to taste a so-called “regular” release against a very similar “reserve” release from the same winery.  At first I took this challenge too literally.  I mean, something has to make the “reserve” release different from the “regular” release, right?  I hope so.

I decided that I needed to be in a state of complete relaxation for this challenge.  I wanted to be able to contemplate the “reserve” wine as much as possible.  So I went to a log cabin in the middle of the woods on an island.

I’m not joking.

My wife had a thing to attend on Whidbey Island, so we decided to spend the night on the island since the retreat thing began on Saturday at 11 AM.  The log cabin was quite interesting.  We’re talking “large gaps between the door and the frame that let in animals” interesting, or “actual spider webs that look like Halloween decoration” interesting.  I split some wood for a fire, which we kept going for several hours.  That thing got really hot; at some point after drinking most of the “reserve” wine I ended up getting embers onto the little carpet in front of the fireplace.  Much of that part of the evening is a blur, though.  I do remember brushing my teeth and hitting my head repeatedly as I stood up from peering into the refrigerator.

The log cabin was something of a repository for the types of middle American nostalgia that people love to collect.  I noticed a National Geographic from 1995 sitting on top of a pile of many magazines.  The guest book entries dated back to 1992, and there were other guest books closed and shelved behind the open one.  The wall calendar in the kitchen was for the year 1938.

I’m not joking.

We had a fun time at this place, and it turned out to be exactly the temple of solitude I was looking for.  I wanted to spend some time getting to know the 2003 Domaine Drouhin Laurène Pinot Noir, a wine that was among the first to command my interest in Pinot Noir as a varietal.  The Laurène wines have such character, and they taste quite different from year to year, not to mention over time as they age in the cellar.  I have tried every Laurène release from 1998 to 2002, some of them multiple times and also some of them at different points in their respective lifespans.  All of them have been outstanding.  I cannot point to a specific vintage as the “best” Laurène because each wine is worthwhile in its own right.  I think the 1999 release might be my favorite, but they all taste terrific.

I have also tried the 2001, 2002, and 2003 Willamette Valley releases from Domaine Drouhin.  The “Classique,” as this wine is also known, represents the “regular” wine in this tasting.  The Laurène is the “reserve” wine in this tasting.  The differences between the two wines seem fairly minimal at first.  The Classique clocks in at only 13% alcohol, while the Laurène is 14.1%.  DDO produced 2,200 cases of Laurène in 2003 compared to 8,907 cases of the Classique release (and 196 cases of Louise).  The cost difference is noteworthy: the 2003 Laurène cost $65/bottle, while the latest release of the Classique (2004) costs $45/bottle, which is up from the 2003 vintage.  Actual street prices start at $52-$55 for the 2003 Laurène and $40 for the Classique.  These prices have risen significantly in just the past year; in 2006, I could find bottles of Laurène for under $40.  Now, $43.72 is the best deal I can find on any bottle of Laurène.

In terms of production differences, the grapes for the 2003 Laurène and Classique releases were harvested from the same vineyards at about the same time (as far as I know) and were bottled in January 2005.  Note that I have not confirmed these details with the winery.  Ultimately, the majority of the barrels are designated as “Classique,” with the best of the lot going toward the Laurène and Louise releases.  However, the Laurène bottles are held at the winery for an additional 6 months or more before release compared to the Classique release.  In general, Domaine Drouhin tends to release their wines about a year later than every other Oregon winery I know about, so even the Classique benefits from a bit of cellar time before you even buy a bottle.

And now, to the wine.  First, my notes on the Laurène:

• Aroma: Rich and dense, lots of red fruit and the promise of potent acidity and tannic activity; not floral whatsoever.  A hint of an earthy mushroom bouquet in the background.
• Flavor: A complex combination of sour red cherry, wild strawberry, black plum, a red earthiness, and a woodsy quality that played across the fruit on my palate.  The wine took at least 2 hours to open up; at first, the tannic activity was incredibly strong for a Pinot Noir, particularly a Domaine Drouhin.  But the tannins settled after a couple of hours and became a part of the flavor profile, along with the vibrant acidity and sour cherry essence.  Tremendously long finish, at least 30-40 seconds.
• General impression: This is a demanding wine at first that settles into an incredibly enjoyable, rich, sensual experience.  I think the 2003 Laurène needs at least 2-3 more years in the bottle; the first 2 hours after opening this wine, the flavors and aromas seemed to indicate that this bottle was in a transitional state between fresh release and appropriate aging.  Still a delicious wine right now, though!

Now, my notes on the 2003 Classique that I drank on December 28, 2006:

• Aroma: Somewhat flinty, with deep red fruit and floral essences.
• Flavor: Strong cherry and raspberry flavors with luscious, lip-smacking depth and tannic structure.  A very complete flavor profile, to be sure.
• General impression: Worth every penny!  I think the 2003 is my favorite Classique release yet.

I had the 2003 Classique again on January 13, 2007 in Oregon.  My notes then were simple: “Delicious as always; needed 10-15 minutes of time in the glass to lose its initial spice and open up.”

I think there is a clear difference between the 2003 Classique and the 2003 Laurène.  The Classique is almost immediately accessible, very rewarding to drink upon its release, and simply wonderful overall.  The Laurène is also wonderful, but in a much deeper, more complex way.  The 2003 Laurène clearly needs time to develop in the bottle; I am definitely going to keep my other 2 bottles tucked away for a few years, whereas the 2003 Classique is ready to go today. 

So, what’s the verdict?  I’d say the Laurène is the superior wine, but is it worth $10-$20 more per bottle than the outstanding Classique?  Only your budget can say for certain.

This entry was posted on Friday, April 6th, 2007 at 10:04 am and is filed under Wine Blogging Wednesday. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.